Dior's Catwalk Chronicles: A Feminist Unveiling of Fashion

instyle2324
Feb 5, 2024
5 min read

AHMED MOHAMMED SAEED for MacInStyle

Monday February 4th 2024

In the 1860s, the ballet of modern fashion dawned, choreographed by the visionary English designer, Charles Frederick Worth. He discarded the lifeless mannequins in favor of living canvases, allowing his creations to waltz into the hearts of Parisians. As the century unfolded its pages, the spectacle of "fashion parades" unfurled its wings in London and New York. Yet, these shows, akin to private sonnets, were confined to intimate audiences of buyers. A veil of secrecy enveloped them, against the intrusive gaze of photography, guarding designs like precious verses from clandestine gazes.The metamorphosis transpired in the aftermath of World War II, as fashion houses threw open their doors to a grand theater, beckoning larger audiences into the enchanted world of haute couture. The once-guarded chambers expanded, seeking the spotlight, and the once-muted garments found their voices in the applause of publicity.

A model wears a slit evening gown by Jo Copeland at the first ever New York Fashion Week (1943).

Christian Dior, a luminary of the post-war stage, etched his legacy in the tapestry of fashion with "The New Look" in 1947, a spellbinding symphony of billowing skirts and sculpted waists. A revelation against the backdrop of wartime austerity, this collection of 95 enchanting looks, epitomized by the iconic Bar suit's hourglass allure, wove a narrative of feminine opulence.

The new look, sketch by Dolores Monet.

In the theater of fashion, Dior's philosophy unfurled like the petals of a romantic bloom, embracing extravagance and beauty. Despite the thunderous applause, dissenting voices echoed, critiquing the lavish materials in an era of scarcity. For the women who once reveled in wartime independence, the New Look ignited a debate, with its whimsical silhouettes and the return of corsets and crinolines.

Dior, the new look.

Yet, the New Look transcended the runway, imprinting its allure on the covers of magazines and the swing skirts of American teenagers. Dior's designs, like verses in a sartorial sonnet, turned wardrobes obsolete in a dance of transformation. In the grand ballet of fashion, the New Look was not merely an ensemble but a transformative force, reshaping the very fabric of style and leaving an indelible mark on the pages of fashion history.

Christian Dior runway show, Paris, 1947.

77 years later, third-wave feminine dressing, spanning from the late 20th to the 21st century, emerges as an empowerment movement. Women, guided by the principles of feminism, become authors of their style, celebrating individual expression and diversity. Choice is the reigning queen, liberating women from past debates on prescribed attire. Feminist fashion, a luminescent thread woven into this narrative, resonates with the spirit of third-wave feminism—a movement celebrating empowerment, individualism, and the rich diversity of women's voices. Women can choose to resonate with feminine ways of dress, or they can choose not to. A leader in third-wave feminine dressing, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the visionary creative director of Dior, has carved her legacy by intertwining feminism with fashion. Appointed in 2016 as Dior's first female artistic director, Chiuri brought forth a philosophy that transcends runways, advocating for gender equality and empowerment. Through her collections, she has championed diversity, challenging conventional beauty standards. Chiuri's designs serve as a poignant commentary on societal issues, With a commitment to inclusivity and a belief in fashion as a platform for social change, Chiuri's philosophy reshapes the narrative, making Dior a beacon of progressive, feminist expression. Here, I provided 6 examples of how Chiuri used fashion to support societal issues and feminism.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, the visionary creative director of Dior

1) Her "We Should All Be Feminists" tee shirts, a tribute to Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's essay, became a sensation in spring of 2017 and were worn by many celebrities including Kendall Jenner, Jennifer Lawrence, and Rihanna.

Jennifer Lawrence wearing a Dior’s “We should all be feminists” t-shirt.

2) For the spring of 2018, Chiuri introduced yet another statement piece—a striped, long-sleeved slogan top posing the provocative question: "Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?" This audacious query was a deliberate nod to the groundbreaking feminist art history essay of the same title penned by art historian Linda Nochlin. Chiuri not only showcased the garment but also provided show notes, emphasizing the intersection of fashion and feminist discourse. In an interview with British Vogue, Chiuri said: “ Dior should be all about female empowerment”.

Sasha Pivovarova going down the runway wearing Dior’s “Why have there been no great women artists?” top in Paris.

3) The first ensemble of the fall 2018 Dior showcase, hosted at the Musée Rodin, unveiled a cream and black knit sweater adorned with the assertive phrase “C’est non non non et non!” on the front, translating to “It’s no no no and no!” This expression echoes the imperative "no means no," potentially serving as a commentary on consent, notably amid the rising momentum of the #MeToo movement in the fashion industry. Given Maria Grazia Chiuri’s legacy of incorporating feminist statements into Dior's runway narratives, the garment resonates as a symbolic stance. Additionally, the words "I AM A WOMAN" stood boldly behind the models, articulated in prominent block letters.

The opening look from the 2018 Fall Dior show “C’est non, non, non et non”.

4) Continuing her commitment, Maria Grazia Chiuri showcased a follow-up concept in a show held beneath neon signs illuminating words such as "Consent." Despite the conventional notion that politics and fashion remain separate realms, Chiuri persists in amplifying women's voices and addressing daily gender inequalities. This dedication was unequivocally affirmed at Dior's Fall 2020 runway during Paris Fashion Week. The timely nature of the message was accentuated as it unfolded less than 24 hours after Harvey Weinstein's conviction for sexual assault and rape.

Dior’s “Consent” sign during the 2020 Fall Paris fashion week.

5) At the 2021 Met Gala, Cara Delevingne made a striking statement by donning a white bulletproof vest adorned with the empowering phrase "Peg the Patriarchy" in bold red lettering. Paired with white cigarette trousers and matching peep-toe heels, the ensemble ensured all attention was directed towards the impactful message sprawled across Cara's torso. In an interview with Vogue, Cara clarified that the message was a bold declaration advocating for "women's empowerment" and "gender equality." Notably, the vest was crafted by none other than Dior’s very own Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Cara Delevingne with a fashion statement at the 2021 Met Gala.

6) Fall 2023 Paris Fashion Week kicked off with Maria Grazia Chiuri's latest feminist manifesto for Dior. The collection made its debut against the backdrop of a video installation, "Not Her," by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni. Vibrant fuchsia pink and yellow screens illuminated collage imagery challenging the role of images in perpetuating stereotypical narratives about femininity and womanhood, according to Chiuri. Texts like "No body is yours, no body is perfect, everybody is performative" and "I am not only a mother wife daughter I am woman" accompanied collaged images satirizing retro Fifties housewives, dismantling patriarchal notions.

Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fall 2023 collection at the Paris fashion week with a video installation titled "Not Her," by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni.

Fashion runways, exemplified by designers like Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior, serve as powerful platforms for fostering hope in the realm of feminism. By challenging traditional norms and dismantling patriarchal constructs, these showcases pave the way for a more inclusive and empowering narrative. Through bold statements and transformative designs, fashion becomes a beacon of change, inspiring a future where equality and diversity shine brightly on every runway.